Thursday, 26th May, 2005
April 17 – Home
On Sunday 17 April we pedalled into Parramatta Park, past the place where Ross had his stroke in 2001 and where we started our cycle trip around Australia 18,730km ago. I floated above it all, watching us ride in and hearing my voice as if it belonged to someone else, like in a dream. But it was real. Glorious warm sun on our skin, the tree I used to hug, lush green grass and Parramatta River a sparkling mirror. Everything so familiar and right, like a favourite glove, this is what home means.
Memory plays like a home movie, all the best bits spliced together, flashing in slow motion. Friends joining us for lunch in the park, some meeting us for the first time, others there in spirit. Ross talking too much to remember to eat. Argo leaning on the fence with her bicycle friends, beckoning to us. Riding an extra lap of the park wearing huge grins before taking the familiar roads back to our own house. Misty coming when Ross calls, winding around our legs then purring a welcome in our arms, forgiving us for leaving her.
We’re home.
April 15 – Freezing through the fog
Yep, that’s rain alright. Drought breakers on a tandem? I don’t think so. The Goulburn dam was now down to about 30 per cent capacity and today’s sprinkle wasn’t going to change anything. Pity though, the water here doesn’t taste great and anything would probably improve it!
Grahame, who’d stayed with friends, dropped in when it was time to ride off into the rain. I’m a fair weather rider, he said, so today I’ll drive behind you and be your support vehicle up to the Bundanoon turn off. We didn’t much feel like riding in the cold wet gloom either, but this was the third last day. As usual it felt much better once we got going.
The climb out of Goulburn has a few turns and a fair amount of roadwork, not ideal wet weather riding conditions, but we were getting friendly horn blows from every second passing truck. What’s up? The reason was explained the next time we pulled over to put on some more warm clothes – Grahame had been on the CB to the truckies, telling them that we were three days from finishing our around Australia trip. Either they thought we were mad or they were giving us a pat on the back. About an even response I’d say!
We pulled over at the turn off and loaded all our gear. It was time to say goodbye to Grahame and after wishing him a safe trip we headed off to Moss Vale. It wasn’t long before we were engulfed in a cold, thick fog. A type of fog we hadn’t experienced on the trip, where you only see the approaching car at the last second, your glasses mist so quickly you have to ride without them, you’re soaked to your freezing bones and all you’re thinking of is a warming fire.
Eventually we made it to Bundanoon and headed to the first café we could find to defrost. Coffee thawed us out but we were a little surprised to pay an extra $4 for a biscuit. Luckily we hadn’t asked for a whole slice of cake or we would have had to mortgage our house. But it was worth it just to be in doors. We couldn’t face going back out into the freezing fog so we put in a mercy call to tonight’s host to confess that we wouldn’t make it. Harlein came to the rescue. We rode Argo a few kilometres up the road for a sleep over at a friend’s property and then hopped in the car with Harlein.
Harlein and husband Murray have a beautiful property at Moss Vale. We couldn’t see any of it through the fog when we arrived, but we discovered it was beautiful when we left the next morning. They live there with a few cows, chooks and the world’s biggest cat (who Ross christened Arnie). Harlein sent Ann off for more thawing in the bathtub while she cooked us dinner. And what a dinner it was. We decided that Harlein is definitely one of the best cooks in Australia. We’ve been researching this extensively so we know what we’re talking about!
April – 14 – Sharing cycling stories
We rode off into the morning peak hour, yes, Canberra actually has one. We were meeting Grahame and Fay at the edge of town. They are tandem cyclists from Dubbo, and old friends although we had never met before. Grahame got in touch with us after reading our story in Australian Cyclist last year and came along for a virtual ride with us ever since. Now for the real thing. Fay drove ahead in their 4WD (with our luggage – yes!), while Grahame rode his single bike. It was a great days’ ride, two abreast, with long conversations and a relaxed pace all the way to Goulburn.
At the end of the day we pulled into the central park in town and rang David , our host for the night. I’ll be there in two minutes, he said, and he was! David and Linda, a past work colleague of Ann’s, settled in Goulburn after a monster cycle trip - Australia (their second time around!), US/Canada and France/Italy. We could’ve traded stories for days, which I’m sure we will soon - but tonight there was only time for a quick peak at each other’s photos. Eventually it was time for bed but after a couple of hours I was woken by something that sounded like rain.
April 12 - 13 - Pearsons at the Capital
Five days to go, but who’s counting? Once we hit Canberra today it really will be like being in our neighbourhood. Three hours away by car, but slightly longer by bicycle. Canberra is also home to my brother David, sister in law Julie, and nieces, Ellen and Anna. But first, a little bit of bike riding.
We’d agreed to talk on Yass community radio before leaving this morning. We downed some more of Perry’s yummy home made bread, raced up to the studio for a chat, returned to the Aldridges to load the bike, then followed our guide Billy out of town. Thanks, mate. We said goodbye then headed towards Canberra.
As we wondered where David would be meeting us on the road a little red car pulled over. Hello, brother, it’s been quite a long while! After the photo shots we off loaded all our gear and headed down the highway in high speed mode. As soon as you hit the ACT border the road turns into a billiard table smooth surface – nice. We quickly rolled into the driveway at L’Hotel Pearson for twenty four hours of relaxation. Whoops, a quick newspaper interview and shoot, THEN time to relax and catch up on all the family news.
Sleeping in was an easy start to the next, typically beautiful, Canberra day. The capital is a city that really experiences four seasons and the falling leaves said that autumn had arrived. This morning’s interview at the ABC was a first – David had decided to do some video shots while in the studio. We really don’t have our own film crew! Interesting call signal down here at ABC Canberra - 666.
We were very keen to catch up with some ex-Sydney friends, David and Jane. They had moved south a couple of years ago and these two avid gardeners feel it was the right choice, which was obvious to us after a guided tour of the newly planted front and rear gardens. We’re looking forward to a return visit, as well as New Years’ celebrations down at the Colo River.
David dropped us back at the L’Hotel – mmm, smells like roast pork for dinner. To top it off, Julie was making her healthy version of a berry and nut torte. We’ve now got the recipe, so once we master it dessert for those who drop in is guaranteed to please! The night was long, and I was dreaming of another rest day but the tandem taxi was waiting to be ridden the next morning.
Tuesday, 24th May, 2005
April 10 – 11 – Mac attack
We’d spent the weekend riding through towns that don’t have big city luxuries like (er) shops. At least ones that sell food on weekends. So by Monday we had exhausted our supplies of ryvita, cous cous and dried fruit and were getting a little tired of neat peanut butter. No shops on the highway today either, unless we took a one hour detour to ride into Gundagai and back… or go to Macdonalds.
I slunk in hoping their advertising of healthy food had some truth to it. No such luck. Everything was covered in enough cheese and mayonnaise to send me to hospital, except for some apples, so I bought them all. Adding a couple of drinks, an aerated plastic yoghurt and a very sad bagette for Ross, it cost more than what we usually spend on two days worth of groceries. I felt really sorry for the hundreds of weary travellers crowding the place. They all looked unhealthy and no one was smiling.
But Maccas wasn’t finished with us. The grass surrounding the place was full of three cornered jacks, giant industrial strength thorns whose one goal is to embed themselves in your bike tyres. We spent the next two hours repairing the damage. So you see, junk food is bad for you. We only made it as far as Coolac that night. The one shop had closed, and so had the one pub, but for the first time on our trip we weren’t hungry.
We left early the next morning for the long ride to Yass. The day was hot, the road was rough and hilly and there was a headwind of course. We didn’t have much food or water but we weren’t worried because we would pass through three towns and drinking water tanks were marked on our map. Except the towns had no shops and the water was contaminated. I wonder what my horoscope had to say for this week?
We had expected this in remote areas and were properly provisioned, but not here in the home stretch of highly populated NSW. How embarrassing that after more than a year of meticulous planning we’d spoil our perfect track record of never being hungry or thirsty so close to the finish line. But luckily the service station at the Yass turnoff had a buy-2L-get-2L free offer on Coke, and we rode the last few kilometres with 4L of Coke swishing around in our bellies. Not a week to be bragging about our excellent eating habits.
We arrived late at the Aldridges, they were about to send a search party out. A friend of a friend who we haven’t met yet introduced us by email and they offered us a bed for the night. The children made us welcome posters and the two youngest sons gave up their beds for us. We ate our first real meal in days – meat, and son Perry’s home made bread. Perry freshly grinds flour for the bread each night. A long soak in the bathtub and a tough day becomes a great one.
Monday, 23rd May, 2005
April 8 - 9 - Welcome to NSW, the premier state
Premier…leading, first, but not for us. After we crossed the Murray River we had reached our LAST state. Even though we were still a way from our finish line it felt like downhill. Not physically any easier, though!
The Hume highway cuts a four, and sometimes six, lane road through Albury. The trucks roll through, day and night. So despite spending the night in a cabin 100 metres from the road, we were ready to ride the next day. We had run out of time to meander home, either by the coast or the inland route. Nup, it was straight up the Hume for us. Busy, boring, but direct. The deadline had been set!
Today’s ride wasn’t long, but for us, lovers of flat roads, it was long enough. We were gradually climbing up rolling hills, heading to the ranges. Going downhill was also interesting. The road surface on the shoulder is fully sealed, but rough. The surface, called chip seal, is made up of large gravel stones which make everything vibrate, and leave your fingers tingling and your teeth vibrating when you get to the bottom of a hill. Might investigate suspension when we get home.
Holbrook, the “submarine town”, was tonight’s stop. After many changes over the years it was decided to name the town after a seaman who was awarded a VC medal, the act of bravery which was unclear to me. What was clear was the size of the submarine that was embedded in the park – very, very, long. The perfect piece of playground equipment – the kids were all over it! A great park for tired mums and dads to take a driving break, with child supervision courtesy of the Australian Navy.
The rough road surface didn’t change the following day, so we took the risk of riding on the traffic lane, “riding their road” we call it. Don’t be alarmed though, we watched our mirrors and zipped back to the shoulder when vehicles were heading our way. Our afternoon session was stopped early by a rear flat tyre. Technically not a puncture because we couldn’t find the hole. Rough road?
Who cared. We fitted a new tube and quickly rode into Tarcutta, the half way point from Melbourne to Sydney. As we looked for a place to spend the night we rode past a truckies memorial. The winding road in this area has yet to be converted to the higher standard sections. Safety costs money and unrealistic deadlines costs lives.
Friday, 15th April, 2005
April 6 – 7 – Turning over 18,000km
After a wonderful cousinly reunion at Shepparton it was hard to tear ourselves away and hit the road. We resolved not to wait another fifteen years for our next visit. Instead of braving the highway, we followed local advice and wound our way through a series of backroads amongst farms. It was wonderful riding – until the bitumen ran out. Uh oh, we had to find a sealed road before Argo sued us for breach of contract (she didn’t sign up for dirt).
Luckily a farmer directed us to a bike friendly route, but the detour meant we couldn’t make Rutherglen that night. We had met Delise and Henry near the SA – Victoria border and they had invited us to stay when we passed through Rutherglen. We were very sad to cancel, but we just couldn’t ride any further.
We dragged our aching bodies out of bed the next morning and set out wearily for Albury. A very hard ride with a ferocious headwind. A few kilometres outside Rutherglen we turned over 18,000km on the odometer. Right, we can go home now! Technically if anyone offers us a lift to Sydney, we can accept because we have completed the distance we set out to ride. Except now neither of us want a lift, we want to ride all the way home to Parramatta Park. Just knowing this made the other half of the ride much easier. Or perhaps it was the celebratory lamington at the Ruterglen Bakery.
April 4-5 – Legends in our own lunchtime
After a fabulous night’s sleep in our comfy motel room, we had plenty of energy for an early start and made good riding progress. Stephen and the Catalyst film crew left from Melbourne about the same time and met us on the road before 10am. Stephen is producing a story on brain recovery which will be screened in a couple of months’ time. The best thing about working with an ABC team is that it is like hanging out with friends, rather than working on a commercial message, and we had fun. We also almost froze to death in the arctic headwinds between takes, but that’s another story that you have read so many times in this journal I’ll stop right there. Anyway, Mark the cameraman had a hot thermos of green tea and suddenly we were warm again. The sun even came out.
The best bit was when Mark hopped on the back of the bike to get some close-ups of Ross’s pedalling action, so I got to ride in the car with Stephen and film the filming! Actually that was the second best bit. The real highlight was stopping at the Murchison Bakery for lunch. Yum. Lots of debate on whether the lamington was a medal winner, but in the end we settled on highly commended.
Oh no, where did the time go? At Mooroopna, just west of Shepparton, we farewelled our friends with hugs and chocolate (Tasmanian of course). Mooroopna is the self proclaimed fruit capital of Australia – or is that canned fruit? We spent the night with Darryl and Dawn. Darryl works at the SPC Ardmona fruit canning plant and Dawn works at the local hospital. But that’s not the connection: Darryl and Dawn are tandemists.
Darryl and Dawn ride a Cannondale tandem just like Argo, except the latest model. Ross was practically drooling over their shiny new 2005 Cannondale, compete with disc brakes, and a new deraileur design (Argo’s Achilles heel). Lucky Argo wasn’t looking.
Next morning we rode into Shepparton to visit Ross’s cousin Helen who we haven’t seen for fifteen years, and then onto Wunghnu to stay with cousin Catherine. I’m not sure I spelled Wunghnu correctly, but you pronounce it ‘One Ewe’. The town even has a sign as you approach that reads “Welcome to Whangnu, Australia’s smallest sheep station (one ewe)”. The town sports several signs featuring caricatures of sheep wearing lipstick and work boots, carrying handbags just like the Queen.
Friday, 8th April, 2005
April 2-3 – Another Melbourne weather conspiracy
To help us in our trip communications, Telstra provided us with a mobile internet connection card free of charge. We have used this all around Australia to keep the website up to date, and so it was a major blow when it stopped working on our way back from Tassie. As usual I called Adrian, our Telstra contact, who always goes out of his way to be helpful. So far out of his way in fact that he even came to see us in Melbourne (he is based in Sydney) on the Saturday we were due to leave. Adrian came equipped with a new card and new software just in case ours was defective. It wasn’t – sadly it seems to be a problem with our laptop – but it’s the thought that counts. Adrian spent hours trying to revive the poor beast, and didn’t throw it out of the window even once, so I never want to hear a bad word about Telstra service ever again. Only two weeks to go until we’re home, and all of it in populated areas, so we will be able to survive with dial up in the meantime (although we will really miss the convenience of the card).
After the laptop ministrations it was too late to leave the city, and the howling winds were too strong for comfortable riding anyway. Erin’s sister’s Tarago was offered to give us a lift out of Melbourne but Ross declined as usual – which I’m still sulking about by the way – and so we had to put up with another night of fine Melbourne dining. Oh what hardship.
Next morning we had a huge day ahead of us: to fit two days of scheduled riding into one. Ross was confident we could do it… until we looked out the window. The trees were bent almost horizontal in the wind, and angry looking black clouds boiled in the sky above. Of course the wind was a headwind, and the storm broke within minutes of us leaving. The Melbourne weather was determined to block our arrival and now it was doing its best to stop us from leaving. So was Melbourne City Council: St Kilda Road was closed. We had to depart from John’s excellent directions, got lost on the detour, and ended up doing a very wet loop of Melbourne back to where we started.
Finally we managed to get out of the city, and even made it out alive (no, you’re not reading the journal of a ghost writer). We battled furious headwinds all the way to Broadford. It was very, very hard going and we were drained. We knew we wouldn’t make it to Murchison where we were meeting a film crew the next morning and felt terrible. But then we stopped for a lamington and revived. Lamingtons are miraculous things. The wind even changed, and we made it to Seymour before dark – close enough to reach Murchison next morning. We treated ourselves to a motel room, but I was too tired to make it to the bathtub. Never mind, soon I will be able to soak in the bath all day every day.