Sunday, 31st October, 2004
October 27 – Beyond the yellow (brick) road
A sleep in today, then a nice long breakfast as well. I pushed off at 9 o’clock and headed south out of Kalbarri. South of the town there are many dramatic, multi coloured cliff faces, with big point break surf.
This was day two of tailwinds, lighter than yesterday, but I’ll take it anyway! The road was following the headlands, so there were plenty of hill climbs followed by fast rolling downhills. Once I rode past the edge of town and into the heath, the wildflowers started again. Today’s colour was … yellow .Limes, lemons, ochres, cadmium yellow, sulphur, and as a contrast to the yellows there were purples, pinks and reds. We saw so many flowers, it was like being in a botanical garden.
Just as the vegetation was changing from “bush” to agriculture, I rode past a lake that was pink. Apparently some sort of a reaction between microbes and trapped Beta Caratine but I can’t remember exactly. Anyway it was stunning to look at.
The rolling hills were now covered with wheat – that means some form of “civilization”. After two months in the bush! I’m not sure if I’m scared, or intrigued. The day ended at the tiny historic town of Northampton. Accommodation was limited but we ended up at an old Catholic convent. It was a fine, two storey building, with many guests for the evening. Brian and Catherine were an English couple doing a world trip, while Tom and his offsider were truck drivers hauling grain from all the local farms to be graded and stored. Tom offered us a watermelon which he was given by one of his providore mates. It weighed a ton so we only took what we could!
October 26 – Easy riders
Tailwind!!! Today it’s here, it exists. Fan bloody tastic! We left Denham and headed back to Overlander. We were heading south, so when we jumped on the bike we really started to fly. It’s good fun when you pick up speed and aren’t struggling against the breeze. Your outlook changes also. Suddenly the vegetation doesn’t look like it’s been ripped from its roots, lying horizontal because of the wind. You don’t crouch low over the handlebars, limiting what you see and enjoy.
We headed into mallee country today, slim trunked trees and low bushes. The further we rode, the more prolific the wildflowers and their colours. Reds, yellows, blues, purples, pinks and greens. Banksias, grevilleas, kangaroo paws, and countless different types of small shrubs and flowers. We even came across pine trees in this red soil country! We spent some time getting off the bike to take photos before we arrived at the Kalbarri turn off.
Monday, 25th October, 2004
October 24 and 25 - Monkey Mia fish feast (and relaxing at Denham)
We travelled the short distance from Denham to Monkey Mia to meet the famous Monkey Mia dolphins. They turn up like clockwork for brekky, and sometimes hang around for morning tea. Tourists line the beach edge while CALM officers talk a little about the dolphins. While this happens the dolphins swim to the shallows, almost beaching themselves.
It all started about forty years ago when a lady started feeding the dolphins from the back of her fishing boat, then the wharf and finally the beach. The same family of dolphins and their offspring have been coming to the beach ever since. They are quite tame and the rangers know them by name and personality.
Only the mature females get fed and quantities are strictly limited so their natural feeding habits aren’t disrupted. People are chosen then asked to give a fish to the dolphin close to them.
We saw it happen twice, both times great to watch. The rest of the day was pure relaxation – and the next - maybe dolphins have that effect! So we can’t really tell you much about our stay at Denham because we pretty much did nothing. I think I can handle a lot more nothing, especially at a beautiful place like this.
October 23 – Overlander farewell
Ann and I started the day riding hard and fast and nothing changed – it was the fastest 75 km we’ve ridden for quite a while. We pulled into Overlander Roadhouse late morning and ordered our celebratory bacon and eggs with tea. Gary wasn’t far behind, so it was breakfasts all round.
This was the last meal we were sharing together as Gary was continuing south while we were heading to Monkey Mia. We had travelled together from Katherine in the Northern Territory, all 3,400 kilometres, to Overlander Roadhouse in Western Australia. Quite a distance, and we didn’t get lost once! Gary had a family commitment on a particular date and had to fly out of Perth on November 4, but we wouldn’t be able to make it until the 5th.
Rick and Ellen suddenly arrived so it was chat going everywhere around the diner. They were also heading to Monkey Mia so we were bound to run into each other out there! We waved goodbye and drove to Hamlin Pool to see the stromatolites. These rock-like formations contain microbes linked to the oldest forms of life on the planet. It also enabled Shark Bay to get World Heritage listing. As we arrived we once again bumped into Aki, our Japanese cycling friend. He had spent the night camped at Shell Beach and was now heading for Geraldton.
We booked in at Denham, a small fishing village, and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon at a caravan park right on the beach.
October 22 – Solo stretch
Today’s ride was 120 kilometres, ending at the Wooramel Roadhouse. Leaving Carnarvon early in the morning was in direct competition with the fruit pickers heading out to the farms.
We had worked out an elaborate plan, Sandra acting as both taxi for Ann to go to physio and support vehicle for myself for water and food supplies. Thank you so much.
Wooramel was only a quick stopover for us. Tomorrow we would leave the highway at the Overlander Roadhouse and go to Monkey Mia.
October 21 – Flying past Carnarvon
Gary started early – really early! I’m just too lazy to start riding at 4 AM, 5 is my limit. The only advantage in leaving that early is that you beat the wind by an extra hour. Good plan! It was howling but both Ann and I were riding well and having regular stops for food and water.
Once again it wasn’t riveting scenery but by late afternoon we rolled into Carnarvon. This is a fruit growing town famous for its bananas and melons. As we rode into town there were signs and stalls every couple of hundred metres, but nothing seemed to be open. Maybe out of season?
We met Gary at the first intersection. He’d been waiting an hour and a half for us so maybe we should have started earlier. We booked in at the caravan park, showered, then it was time for a beer. We’d all been invited to dinner with some travellers that Gary had met the night before but we declined, a home cooked pasta meal with an early night would do me. Besides, we had to do another 120 kilometre ride tomorrow.
It was a good decision. Ann had been suffering most of the day from slight pins and needles in her right hand and that headache that wouldn’t go away. After an hour off the bike it hadn’t improved, in fact worsened. Pinched nerve? No point guessing, so she went down to the local hospital. A few quick tests revealed an enormous muscle knot above her right scapula. Regular massage and several stretches should slowly remove it. The nurse also suggested Ann get some physio treatment tomorrow morning at the hospital. A sore but relieved rider arrived back at the van ready for a meal and an early night.
At the same time Gary walked in the door after a wonderful evening. Not only had he been shouted his meal, Rick and Ellen offered a donation for National Stroke. Thank you so much, guys.
October 20 – Bike maintenance then one last swim
The morning started for Hans and myself doing the necessary bike maintenance…ho hum. We all pitched in cleaning the cabin and loading the van. Gary had ridden off early in the morning and we planned to meet at Manilya roadhouse. Unfortunately because of the layout we only have room for one bike.
We walked the 50 metres to the beach and spent the last two hours at Coral Bay soaking up the sun and swimming. Oh well, time to go but we’ll be back. Riding in the van back to Manilya was quick and effortless, slightly different to bicycle touring.
When you’re travelling on the bike, your speed or lack of it, allows you to see every detail. Many “die hards” claim it is the only way to travel, and what you see when travelling by car is like watching high speed TV. I don’t agree with that. Seeing something in a different light is neither better nor worse, just different.
We met Gary at the roadhouse, had a bite to eat, then had an early night. Tomorrow was going to be a big ride.
October 19 – Water world
Today’s tour started at the dive shop at a very leisurely 8 AM. We were all fitted for wet suits, fins, and masks. Some of us were diving as well so they were also fitted with the necessary extras.
The boat left straight off the beach – the surrounding coastal reef lagoon meant still water right to the sand. The sea within Ningaloo reef was a beautiful turquoise blue, crystal clear to the bottom. As we left the reef a spotter plane had found a manta, so Geoff the skipper navigated quickly to the spot.
Only ten people could swim with the manta at one time (naturally no contact), so our guide Rob kept us in close position. Each group would be allowed about ten minutes, alternating so we could rest on the boat, before going again.
It was amazing looking down on the graceful, slow moving creature which was two metres across. We were in about five metres of water, so still and clear, with beams of sunlight shining to the sandy bottom. Diving down would put you no more than an arm’s length from contact. On our last swim above the ray it slowly rose towards the surface and then did a slow barrel roll, revealing its white underbody and four sucker fish. Its large eyes checked us out before the ray returned to feeding just above the sea floor. Truly a wonderful experience.
The spotter plane had also found two humpbacks, mother and calf, slowly heading south. Within seconds we could see the huge tailfins as they dived and surfaced. The mother would lift her tail high, dive deep, then breach with a huge splash. The wash was so strong it would rock the boat. From Exmouth in the north down through to Ningaloo reef is a favoured breeding ground, before the whales head south.
While this performance was going on, a shark nearby had run into a school of tuna on the surface. It immediately went into a feeding frenzy, with gulls above trying to pick up the left overs. Suddenly a huge albatross passed the boat, heading seaward. You almost had to sit down to take in all these new experiences!
Next stop was a reef where turtles hung out. Sure enough, there they were bobbing to the surface for another breath. We put on our masks and jumped in. The multicoloured corals we saw came in many sizes and shapes, with schools of fish passing. Geoff pointed out a spot where there would be sharks. We swam over, where, in three metres of water three reef sharks were circling below us. There is no real danger from any type of shark here – they’re so well fed on fish that taking a snorkeller would be too much like hard work! Rob said that one group of divers were exploring with a tiger shark close by – caution is always necessary but the likelihood of danger is low.
Finally we headed back to the beach, everyone amazed at all that we had seen. Even Brad, the other guide, thought it was a “packed” tour for the day. We washed down our gear at the dive shop, then walked straight into the bakery next door – you get hungry doing all that snorkelling!
After some taste testing we waddled back to our cabin and were met by Hans, a Dutch cyclist who had been leap frogging us for the past few days. He had broken some spokes on the cluster side and needed the tools necessary to fix it. No worries, mate, but it was now time for fish ‘n chips down at the pub – we’ll do it tomorrow.
Gary shouted us the meal as a thank you for using the “support vehicle” – he would be leaving us in two days so this was the last opportunity for a pub meal together. Fantastic, fresh local fish!
October 18 – On the beach, again
We’d been told two things about Coral Bay – don’t drink the water and the bay and reefs were beautiful. Both are true!
As we were checking in at the caravan park I saw a brochure for a tour, snorkelling with manta rays, reef sharks and coral reefs. A perfect break from the bike. There were two operators, one next to the local bakery, so I’m sure you know which one we went with. After paying up we dived into the bakery – heaven. Coral Bay Bakery is the best we’ve eaten from in a long time. Everything was baked on site. Bread, lamingtons, cinnamon scrolls, vanilla slices, pies and a deadly almond slice. We took the goodies back to the cabin and started to pig out!
Later in the afternoon Ann went to the local medical centre. Dr. Peter was pretty relaxed about consultations, thongs and t-shirt were the business suit. Walking back to the cabin, we got a call from Gary. He was exhausted by the day’s ride and was pleased to have made it. Unfortunately we didn’t have any beers in the fridge so he had to go and grab some. Sorry, mate.
October 17 – A Sunday ride in the country
We slept in today, yesterday worked us hard. Ann rode the first 25 km, but was still not well enough to continue. After 30 kms we arrived at an information bay at a turn off to Exmouth and Coral Bay. Gary decided there were two reasons to take this route – it had a tailwind and a bed at Garilia Homestead which offered accommodation. He grabbed some muesli bars, some water, and toiletries, and agreed to see us the next day at Coral Bay.
I was now riding alone but despite the desolation of the landscape, beautiful yellow desert grevilleas were growing beside the road. Today was Sunday and the traffic volume dropped even more than normal – about one car every 10 minutes. There were also 5 “oversize” loads, escorted trucks carrying objects wider than one lane. Must be Sunday trading.
We ended the day at an official campsite at a dry river bed. There were concrete tables, chairs, BBQ areas and even had a drop toilet with solar powered lighting! Very nice site, all it was missing was a blue bus. We were now 50 kms short of Manilya Roadhouse which would be a pre breakfast ride before we would jump into the van for two days at Coral Bay. Beach sounds good to me!
Monday, 25th October, 2004
October 16 – The $5 roadhouse
The bushcamp site we had chosen was ideal but the wind gradually built during the night to be almost gale force. I was blown off my space blanket and ran around rescuing all my essential equipment – it’s tough sleeping without your blow up pillow!
Riding that day wasn’t any easier, so we pulled into Nanaturra Roadhouse after 50 kms. We all needed a lift and decided a shower would do the job. $5 each but no drinking water provided. To take a powered van site for four adults cost $20 with drinking water supplied, so it was easy to make a decision.
We needed a shower key - $5 deposit. We needed some bottled water - $5 per 1.25 litres, Coke - $5, loaf of frozen white bread - $5, bag of ice - $5, two cups of tea - $5. A pattern was emerging here!
We had to fill the campervan with fuel and it also was the most expensive so far. Sometimes cycling isn’t so cheap. After leaving the roadhouse we finally pulled up 70kms down the road to camp. First, out with the folding tables and chairs, and beers all round. Well done team, you earned it today!
October 15 – Wave riders
Yesterday’s severe conditions convinced us to start before dawn. Well, at least that worked for an hour. Once again we were working hard to just move forward, but when you’re concentrating so intensely on the road the riding becomes… uninteresting.
So today I thought I’d give you a quick guide to the waving technique of fellow travellers. This also differs greatly depending on direction, vehicle type and speed.
Obviously the “no wave” is the least responsive approach. Often used by local or road contractor drivers who are too busy to wave to touring cyclists.
Next there is the finger lift, hand resting on top the steering wheel, followed by the four finger wave. Once again, this is usually used by those in a hurry, or done as a response to our vigorous wave.
Taking the hand off the wheel and waving is probably the most common response of most drivers and riders. From road train drivers down to motorcycle riders, it is the 110 km/h version of “g’day”.
We always enjoy seeing the out the window wave. Often the driver actually owns a bicycle themselves and is happy to see a like minded pair riding. Sometimes this wave is a big “thumbs up” or even a yell of encouragement.
The most enthusiastic and spontaneous wave comes from cars that are travelling very slowly. Suddenly twelve madly waving hands are outside all the windows, with big smiles inside. The car usually has come from a local indigenous station or community.
This is only a very brief description of common responses. The longer we travel, the more we learn and know about “the waver”. Next time we might shed some light on “horn blowing”, what it means, who does it, and why.
At the end of this “uninteresting” day we pulled into an information bay at the Onslow turn off. A 4WD also pulled in and five guys jumped out. They washed from a hand basin then proceeded to cover themselves in ochre before tying red bands around their arms and heads. I introduced myself and asked what they were doing. Rob said they were going to Mount Tom Price for a type of clan meeting which would last a few months. It happens once every three years and now they were collecting some family members from Onslow. They asked us to take their photo before the guys wished us well, then drove off.
Tuesday, 19th October, 2004
October 14 – Southerly busters
We did all the necessary packing the night before so there was no excuse to miss an early ride start. Pity, cause we were feeling right at home at Pete’s place. Once again, thanks mate. Ann was going to ride our first session and then decide whether she was well enough to continue. The answer was no. I jumped on Argo, rear seat vacant. There is really not much difference in riding style or power, just the fact that two extra pedals are going up and down.
The support vehicle temporally had two team members to help the riders stay on the road as quickly as possible. I’m not sure that was a good idea today! The wind in our faces was gale force, quite different from what last night’s weather report suggested. Gary and I were struggling against gust after gust - it was so strong that I was blown off the rode twice! Despite the beautiful bluffs and rolling hills we focused all our energies into staying upright and going forward.
After a little over half way I pulled over next to an inverted caravan. It had been ripped apart and a blown tyre at the end of wayward skid marks told the story. Most of the useful items had long been acquired, not that I was in the market for any thing in particular.
We finally made today’s destination, Fortesque Roadhouse. We were told by the Karratha Bikers, who do charity rides to the roadhouse, to introduce ourselves to Barry, the owner. After a short chat, all I can say is that Barry is a wonderful guy committed to charity work through the ambulance network. He was also happy to help us out with what we are doing by offering no cost accommodation. Thank you so much, mate.
Gary and I were worn out after the day’s ride, not even a beer would give us a lift so at dinner we decided to take matters into our own hands and have the truck driver’s meal – the mixed grill! Fantastic, if this doesn’t help with tomorrow’s ride I’ll be worried.
Wednesday, 13th October, 2004
October 12 -13 – Pete from Karratha Bikers to the rescue
Point Samson was the perfect place to relax, sleep, swim, snorkel, and get bitten by sandflies but a tent is not a good place to convalesce. Luckily Strop (Peter) who we met at the Biker’s night out dropped by with his house keys and gave us a place to stay for a few days. So here we are at Pete’s house in Karratha while he and his wife are away in Perth. Thanks Pete!
Ross rode our tandem here from Roeburn solo as I wasn’t able to get upright yet and I had to get a lift. People kept gesturing at him and pointing to the empty back seat. For the first time ever the accusation “she’s not pedalling” was correct. Hopefully I will be fit enough to ride tomorrow.
October 10 and 11 – Paradise… and sandflies
The day’s short ride was to Roebourne. Along the way we were passed by the Harley riders. Lots of waving. When we arrived opposite the local diner a woman raced over to say hello. It was Maylea, one of the stranded motorists from the other day. She invited us in for cold drinks – great. The business was family owned, and Maylea suggested the caravan park at Samson’s would be perfect. When we arrived there we couldn’t believe how idyllic it was. We booked in then hit the water for a wonderful soak for an hour. Finally we were back to a normal temperature!
As soon as we had set up camp the ‘locals’ said hello. Merv and Pat on the site next to us had originally met us in Timber Creek, back in the Territory. Jenny, Di and Carol were camped opposite and immediately offered us fresh caught fish. Lunch was BBQ fish and a beautiful salad before an afternoon of snorkelling with gear we borrowed from Merv and Sharn. The small coves in the area are separated by rocky points each surrounded by coral reefs. The water was so crystal clear it was easy to see for metres. Fish of all types and sizes swam slowly between the multicoloured soft and hard corals.
We were told to watch out for sandflies, and mum and Ann were soon covered from head to toe in nasty welts. Later that afternoon Ann fell ill. It was 43 degrees in the shade and when you are camping there is no cool airconditioned place to lie down. By evening I was very sick and the next morning to weak to move. Caravan parks are very closeknit communities and I found I had about a dozen mothers. All the first aid books came out and I was diagnosed with everything from heat exhaustion to Ross River fever. I couldn’t walk as far as the shower block so mum ended up hosing me down to get my temperature down and I spent the rest of the day being cooled with borrowed portable fans.
October 9 - A nest of bikers
We rode out of town at five thirty with Mike, Karen and Julie, heading south to Whim Creek. After 35 km we’d reached their turn around point so we said our goodbyes and pushed on. The ride to Whim Creek hotel was hard and hot so we crashed out in the bar until the heat of the day passed. No alcohol drunk of course – but it was the only place with fans and shade. We spent the next couple of hours rehydrating, getting dosed with free ice, and talking to the ‘locals’. Simmo, a miner, asked what we were up to and immediately offered a donation. People in the remote areas are just amazing.
Tony and Sharn who we’d met at Kununarra dropped in on their way to Point Samson, our stop for the next night. We arranged to meet and then headed off to the rest area which would be tonight’s stop. Sadly there is no longer any accommodation at the pub, which has been taken over by the mine – so recently that the Port Hedland visitor’s centre didn’t know about it. There go our dreams of a shower tonight.
The rest area at Sherlock River was full of motorbikes and men in black t-shirts drinking beer. They were taking wagers on whether any campers would stop there for the night. So of course we had to join them. Apparently the last five cars had left in such a hurry their wheels were spinning, and another two did so after our arrival. They said our bicycles had scared them off.
The Karratha Bikers club were having a relaxed ‘boys only’ night but extended an open invitation to join them for a BBQ and some beers. They warned mum that there would be drinking, swearing and noise but anyone who heard her going on about the sandflies the past few days would know that this isn’t a problem for her. We were absolutely stunned and grateful for the great evening we had. Doris, the president, did a quick whip around and raised a substantial donation for the National Stroke Foundation. Thank you guys. The club is community orientated and raises money for many worthy causes, quite different from the standard stereotype of ‘bikies’. Apparently you can tell the good guys from the bad guys by whether they call themselves bikers (good) or bikies (bad) and where they wear their colours (only bad guys wear them on the back).
The evening ended for Ross at two o’clock, but most of the guys went through to sunrise.
As I was heading for bed, Nader let off flares from the bridge. Good fun and lots of laughs.
October 7 and 8 – Pushing into Port Headwind
We were riding in spinifex country now, desert red sand, salt bush, and Sturts desert pea wildflowers beside the road. The vegetation is much lower and sparse, leaving little protection from the winds. Lunch was at a rest area on the banks of the De Gray river. The water was deep and cooling but salties are known to be in the area. No swimming recommended. Back on the bike we suddenly had a tailwind – unbelievable. After an hour we pulled up to help a stranded couple with an overheated engine. A bit of ying and yang, after all we’ve received many offers of water when we are resting beside the road.
We were flying along with only 20 km to get to town when the direction changed again. Fun while it lasted. Suddenly a lone sheep came rushing out onto the road from the bushes. It ran beside us, bleating when we tried to out run it, before leaving us as quickly as it had joined. Odd experience number one.
Within seconds a 4wd pulled up beside us, travelling at the same speed. In the back seat WITH his bicycle was Peter, a German cyclist we’d met on the way to Alice Springs. What’s happened? “ Headwinds are too strong and 40 plus temps are too hot!” Maybe he’s right? Odd experience number two.
As the car drove off the NEXT car pulled up beside us. It was Colin, Yolande, and J&J arriving in town just as we were. A quick chat about the best caravan park and then they were off. Fun end to a long 155 km day!
The next day was spent grocery shopping, a medical check up for Ross and pre-poll voting for Ann. (Although we applied for postal votes, only Ross’s arrived). It is election day tomorrow, but we will be 100km away from the nearest polling station. Having been offline for the last six months it was hard to know who was standing for what in our electorate and we ended up voting for a candidate we hadn’t heard of (she won, but the opposition is claiming foul play!). As usual the senate ballot paper was very long, and full of single issue parties like the no GST party, the fishing party, the outdoor recreation party, the family first party…
In the evening we were invited by Helena, who we’d met through the aged care support team in Broome, to the local yacht club for a meal. Fish n’ chips by the bay, cool evening breeze, very relaxed. We were in uniform and were immediately approached by Mike, a local cyclist. He quickly arranged for two others to join us and ride out of town tomorrow morning – it’s great meeting other cyclists.
October 6 – Do you like your cyclists medium rare or well done?
A very early start today. The theory is that if we get up early enough we’ll beat the wind but the jury is out on that one. By seven o’clock we were pedalling in thirty degree heat, and by midday the temp had climbed to forty two. In these conditions we have to drink a litre an hour, more if we have it.
We arrived at Pardoo for lunch and spent an hour in the air conditioned shop. It was put to a vote whether we ride on and once Ann found the pool out the back in the caravan site the result was unanimous. Roadhouse dinner, a couple of beers, the Simpsons on tele for Gary, then off to bed.
October 4 & 5 – From sand flies to beach sand
We all woke after a night spent warding off sand flies. Maybe we’re just eastern state softies but the insects in this state are winning the fight. We all got bitten, Ann the worst. We couldn’t move quick enough to get back on the road, at least then we could out run them.
The riding was through typical mulga scrub with the strong southerly headwinds being a constant challenge. Able assistance in the support vehicle by Sandra was greatly appreciated.
Finally we arrived at the turn off to Eighty Mile Beach, hid Gary’s bike in the brush and did the quick ten km to the surf. Booked in at the caravan park, found our site, have the well earned beer and then hit the surf. We watched the sunset on a beach that went from horizon to horizon. Stunning.
The following rest day was swimming, sleeping, eating, and an early night.
October 2 & 3 – I thought supported rides were meant to be easy…
The ride from Broome to Port Smith was very hard. Although mum was carrying our heavy gear and extra water the ferocious headwind made up for it. But we fought hard and made good time. We got to the beach in time to watch a beautiful soft sunset through the mangroves. The sky was suffused with a gentle pink which glowed on the water and sand in a continuous stream.
Sadly we had to leave before dawn the next morning, hoping vainly to beat the headwind that taunted us by blowing harder than ever. We fought hard again and made good progress to what seemed like an ok campsite… until the sandflies arrived in droves. In minutes mum and I looked like we had measles.
October 1 – false start
To take advantage of mum’s desire to spend time with us (you know how mums are) we hired her a campervan and enlisted her as our willing waterslave and packhorse. The campervan sleeps two so I was really looking forward to a month without sleeping on the hard ground amongst the mozzies. Mum was looking forward to joining our great adventure. Lots of people have emailed us saying how envious they are and they wish they could do it too, but mum will be able to tell you soon just how much hard work it is… even when you are not cycling.
Someone must have warned the campervan what it was in for because when we went to pick it up the door jammed and it spent several hours getting repaired. By then it was too late to leave town so we had to wait until the next morning. Just as well, we were still exhausted and we hadn’t visited the local brewery yet. Matsos brews boutique beer and was only a short walk from where we were staying. We struck it lucky and chanced upon Oktoberfest and had a wonderful time getting plied with free bar food and cocktail sausages. Their beer is fabulous too of course.
September 29 – 30 – Clean sweep
We packed as much into a sweep of Broome that our tired bodies could manage. We did our usual media rounds, then hit the beaches – beautiful, quiet Town Beach up the road and Cable Beach where the beautiful people go. Mum and I caught the bus to Gauntheame Point to look at the spectacular rocks and then walked around to Cable Beach. The walk was longer than we thought and we missed the bus, but luckily the airport shuttle took pity on us and deposited us back at base with just enough time to scrape off the beach sand and get into uniform for a visit to the aged care support team.
Somehow we managed to squeeze in time for Ross to visit the barber. I asked hopefully if he could trim my hair too, as I hadn’t had a chance to visit a hairdresser in the six months since I left Sydney and there certainly wasn’t time now. In minutes Stuart trimmed off all the sunravaged dead looking bits and restored me to follicular glory once more. (Ok, I know I’m overdoing the verbage here but it was a long wished for event which I’m really grateful for – by the way did I mention that mum brought me a DRESS in her luggage?).
Then off to the markets and to watch the famous Stairway to the Moon. The markets seemed to be a gathering point for every cyclist in town and we said hello again to many new friends we had made on the road, including Aki from Japan and Peter from Germany. We thought Peter would be long ahead of us but he decided to stay a few weeks in Broome to recharge his batteries. I can really understand that.
We watched the moon rise over the ocean with Bob and Kay who Gary had camped with the night before reaching Broome. We walked out into the ocean about 750m (it was low tide) to get past the packed jetty. Our waterfilled footsteps glowed with blue phosphorences, little sea creatures that sometimes stuck to our ankles before extinguishing themselves. As the moon rose the reflected glow on the ocean was like a stairway leading up to it. It was very beautiful.
September 28 – Broome Broome
We woke to find our sleeping bags sodden with dew, which was very unexpected in the dry dusty land we found ourselves in. But we were less than 100km from Broome after all. We made a quick getaway and rode fast into the headwind, arriving at the post office before lunch time. Unfortunately our postal votes we had applied for weeks before hadn’t arrived yet – apparently this was normal. I picked up the laptop, our parcel of winter clothes and extra gear with my back groaning under the weight and we hauled ourselves up the hill to our accommodation.
We had time to do the washing, hang out our sleeping bags, have a shower, go shopping and cook dinner before mum flew in from Sydney. It was great to see mum again after six months but we were all exhausted and had an early night. More please!
September 27 – Long distance travel
Neither Ann nor I were keen to start the morning by riding 20 km back on the unsealed road works but Mal, a road contractor came to the rescue. We loaded our gear into his ute and only started pedalling after we were back on bitumen. Next stop was now Broome but first we wanted to try the famous corn beef sandwiches Rosalyn spoke of days ago. Big thumbs up in our opinion! Coming through the roadhouse a little later than us, Gary grabbed the last three. Pity they hadn’t ordered more.
The terrain was now flatter and more wind blown (if that was possible) so we pulled over at a rest area late in the day. It was low 40’s and shade was hard to find. An adventure tour 4wd bus pulled in for the standard toilet stop. People of all nationalities and ages book these tours which cater for relatively soft options, but they are all keen to look at bicycles. They left just as Bob and Kay drove their caravan in to the rest area. Kay had seen us in the local newspaper at Kununarra and thought they might see us on the road as they travelled west.
Gary arrived later and decided to stay the night while we pushed on so we were left with less kms to ride to Broome the following day. We pulled off the road late at night for a rest when a 4wd with trailer pulled up. Murray jumped out to see if we were all right and then proceeded to offer us anything that was in his two eskies! Ice cold Cokes and Kit Kat’s were perfect!
Murray was from Perth, heading to Halls Creek and was driving 1200 km a day to get there. He was going to do some contract work at a mine and preferred to drive rather than fly. After a long chat he pulled out his camera, took a few photos, and offered accommodation in Perth if he was there. Remote area sense of community is very special. The junk food powered us on for another hour before we decided the long day should end and we found a great camp spot to sleep under the stars near a microwave repeater station.
September 26 – Big tide, small town
Derby is renowned for having the largest tides in Oz, in fact 10 metres difference from low to high tide. This is very large but on the mud flats it doesn’t move quick enough to be impressive. None the less the wharf pylons are very tall and covered with barnacles to just below the deck. Derby also has a reputation for good fish ‘n chips at the wharf restaurant, so we booked for that night.
The day was very humid, normal around here as you build up to wet season, but even the locals were surprised. Ann took refuge in the pool while I did some standard bike maintenance, and Gary crashed out in front of the TV. Another cyclist, Rick, booked into the room near us. He’d just completed the Gibb River Road trip, seen as one of the hardest for cyclists. “No problem, just too many 4wds.” This was his first ever cycle tour and he pretty well started at the top of the list. He’d decided it was time for a day off but didn’t think much of the town so would push off tomorrow for Broome.
One trip I was keen to do while here was a flight over the Buccaneer Archipeligo. You would see the ‘horizontal waterfall’, an effect created as surging tides rush through narrow coastal gorge walls. The tour seaplane would then land at the entrance where you would take a boat up through the surge. Booked out, unfortunately.
In the evening we cycled down to the wharf to have our meal – beautiful site, average fish ‘n chips.
September 25 – Showers on the road
An early start was necessary if we were to make Derby in daylight. Not making Derby at all was a possibility. The day was well over 40 degrees with not much shade offered by the small trees beside the road. Once again we pulled over for a rest and a mouth full of hot water. A 4wd suddenly pulled over to offer assistance if needed. “Just cold water if possible”. Wayne and Roslyn jumped out and offered us drinking water and then offered to douse us in water. Yes please.
They had just completed a journey from Melbourne to Alice Springs to here via the Tanami Desert and were racing down to get a highly recommended corn beef sandwich at the nearby roadhouse. See, you have to have your priorities right if you want to travel in remote areas!! Gary arrived just in time for the last of the water so we all left in a much cooler state than we arrived, even if only for a few minutes.
Turning right to Derby immediately hit us with an offshore wind, the coast being only 40 km away. Ann thought turning left to go directly to Broome would have been a better option but the heat was taking its toll and a day’s rest by the coast might help. The decision wasn’t helped by the 20 km of unsealed road work we had to negotiate before arriving in town.
It was time to find somewhere to stay the night and fortunately we were helped by a local cyclist. Ross lived around the corner (very small town) and was happy to take us to the local van park. As we pulled up at his house to borrow a hammer all the kids raced out to see the strange two seater bike with a trailer. Everyone immediately dragged out their bikes for the ride down to the park. Great fun.
Gary rang to say he was just around the corner (see, it is a small town) at the Boab Inn. We rode over, booked a room and headed straight for the bar - we earned it today.
September 24 – Hey Jude
Thanks to Dean’s water drop and a fantastic buffet meal last night we made really good progress from Fitzroy Crossing despite the heat and the headwind. Gary reckons cyclists are bad for the buffet business because we eat so much, especially Ann who is deceptively small and eats the most.
Luckily we were to receive two water drops for the long distance day. Generally we ask the good Samaritans to wrap a Woolies bag around a reflector post close to the prearranged distance, say 100 km from our start point. Then it is a case of walking ten metres into the scrub and dropping off the 10 litre containers. Pretty simple and so far no problems. Sometimes when there are many trees about we ask for another Woolies bag to be tied to the tree. Home delivery with a minimal fee.
While talking to the visitor info guide the previous day, Gary was told there was a ‘lake’ 90 km along the road we were travelling. A swim would be great considering the heat and the bushfires around us. We spotted it from the road and couldn’t get in quick enough. We waved to a camper across on the other bank before she swam over to say hello. Jude was a Broome local who always dropped in for a swim on her way home. Despite an offer of billy tea it was time to get back on the road and find our second water drop. Jude would catch up with us tomorrow with a cold drink on offer – thanks. We finished the ride with some night riding after having such a great soak.
September 22 – 23 – The hottest place in Australia
We seem to have a knack of always being in the hottest place in Australia. When we visited Katherine, the hottest recorded temperatures in the country were there too. Today Australia’s hottest place is Fitzroy Crossing, 151km away.
Ross isn’t bothered by the heat, but I grew up in the highlands of South Africa where they closed schools if temperatures ever got as hot as 30 degrees (which was hardly ever). What I’m trying to say is that I’m not good in the heat. I’ve found that my body sort of shuts down and I get a terrible lethargy as soon as I stop moving, but I can cope ok if we just keep riding all day. Since there is no shade or relief from the heat it is the only option. So we just kept going all day, and there were no good camping spots so we rode into the night too.
We almost made it to Fitzroy Crossing but the night was dark and we had to stop for safety. Because Ross’s right side has no feeling, he has no idea what that part of his body is doing or where it is when he can’t see it. This makes it hard to balance, amongst other things. So we spent a few hours on the hard roadside at the entrance to a truck parking bay, and pulled into Fitzroy Crossing an hour after sunrise.
I went in search of air conditioned accommodation but sadly we couldn’t afford it at the first place I tried. One of the guests overheard me telling Ross we’d need to ride further to find something in our budget and before we knew it Keith had paid for us to stay in air conditioned luxury. It even had a bath tub, which I spent a good deal of time in of course. Thank you so much Keith, you have no idea how much thanks we owe you.
Ross and Gary went off on a tour of Geike Gorge, a spectacular limestone gorge full of freshwater crocs. I chose to stay out of the heat and took care of laundry detail and did some laps in the swimming pool. Swimming pools are good places to meet people because our weird cycling clothes tans always raise a lot of interest, and by the time the boys returned we had two more water drops organised.
September 21 - Swimming with cows
The best thing about staying with a weatherman is that you get to order a tailwind. But unfortunately we were soon out of Doug’s jurisdiction and it was a tough, hot ride. We hit it hard and arrived at the rest area at Mary Pool by lunch time. Move over cows, we want to get in the water too. The water was cool, but we got out dirtier than when we got in. And to think that Gary’s guidebook had suggested drinking it. Thanks Tim and Jeanette for saving us from that one.
Later that afternoon came the best surprise of the day: the Meals on Wheels team arrived, Annette in her car and Matt and James in the blue bus. Annette and Matt are both chefs, and they had stocked up on fresh veg in Halls Creek so our menu expanded somewhat from the planned banger sangers. How lucky can you get?
James’ pet duck Ding took to the water with relish, and later in the night a flock of pelicans arrived. 200km from the ocean? Another surprise.
No time for pancakes as we left the next morning vainly attempting to beat the heat. We said our goodbyes again, but sadly this time we didn’t expect to catch up again soon. Annette is waiting to meet friends on the Gibb River Road after we pass it, and Matt is not planning on heading to Perth for some time.
September 20 – Halls Creek no problem
Halls Creek is another of the many places we heard bad stories about, cyclists who had their clothes stolen off the washing line in the van park, caravaners who had bits stolen off the back of their vans in rest areas etc, but as usual we saw no evidence of it. Doug’s lived there for 18 months and he has not either. He says there is no Aboriginal problem in Halls Creek either, if anything there is a white problem as the Aboriginal communities are the friendliest by far.
Anyway, we decided to stay another day to cook and go shopping and do the washing thing. The shops were closed when we arrived as it was a Sunday, a good excuse to stay! While shopping at the very well stocked supermarkets, Aki the Japanese cyclist we met riding to Alice rolled into town. It was great to catch up. Gary also got to spend some time rehydrating with beer, I got to soak in the pool at the hotel and Ross visited Meg at the local art centre. And most importantly, we got a very valuable visit to the Visitors Centre. Jeanette was very helpful and knowledgeable, and gave us much better advice on the water availability for the next two days riding than our guide books: there is NONE. AAAARGH.
While we were scratching our heads trying to figure out how to carry an extra 20kg of water, Jeanette called her partner Tim who was heading out that way to see if he could do a water drop for us. Tim is a cyclist too, so of course he was happy to help and also gave us great advice on where he would do the drops. Saved. Cyclists are wonderful people.
September 19 – Tick attack
After many goodbyes and photos we headed to Halls Creek but a recipe of low energy and dry, hot, conditions led to a pretty poor cake.
We decided to cut our losses and have an early lunch, maybe a meal break would help us lift our game. We pulled over at a dry creek bed and saw shady trees and grass underneath. Perfect.
Starting to eat I suddenly saw we were covered in ticks. We quickly moved to the road and spent the rest of the lunch break preening each other to remove all the ticks. Must have looked odd to the passing motorists.
We watched a beautiful sunset as we rode into town and headed to the Visitors Centre to find a town map. The Visitors Centre was closed but we hoped to find a map posted outside – no such luck. We decided to head for the nearest pub, always a sure bet for finding Gary. As we pulled out we saw a man holding a large spanner striding purposefully towards us.
It was Doug, the local weather man. He had been fixing a piece of weather equipment on his roof – hence the spanner – and had seen us riding into town. Doug is also a cyclist, in fact he does not believe in cars, and offered us a place to stay. He “camps” in a four bedroom weather bureau house so he had plenty room for all of us. Doug is a minimalist and does not have much furniture so there was room for the bikes inside too.
And guess what? Doug has a BATH TUB, so that took care of my recreation for the night.