Tuesday, 27th April, 2004
27 and 28 April – surfing the Gold Coast, virtually
Time for some serious admin, no sight seeing or riding. Ross also went to a barber and is pretty again.
PS - updates for the last couple of days of April are included in the May updates (sorry for running behind - our computer caught something nasty again, but went to the doctor and got healed)
26 April – we made it to Coolangatta
We weren’t sure if we’d make it, but Ross did such a good job on Argo’s gears that we even managed to ride up most of the hills. We stopped at Billynudgel for the best pasties we’ve ever bought and decided that we have to start a “best of” list. So far our awards are:
- best fish and chips awarded to Maclean fisherman’s co-op
- best pasty awarded to Humble Pie Co at Billynudgel
It was our first 75km day without granny gears. Puddy and the boys made us right at home at Linda’s place (that’s Puddy helping update the website in the photo). Linda runs Bicycle Gold Coast (www.bgc.org.au) so we’ve got all our questions answered on where to ride, what roads to avoid, who to talk to etc all taken care of from here to Brisbane.
25 April – Byron
We stayed with Gina, an old friend of Ross’s from university. 
Gina spoiled us again and filled us up with home cooked meals (thank you Gina!!!) She has a really wonderful house which like a true architect’s house is not finished. We did the tourist thing, with a visit to the lighthouse, lots of photo opportunities, a swim at the beach, fish for dinner… and oh yeah, Ross fixed Argo’s gears and I did the washing.
24 April – the hills are alive with the sound of panting
10km out of Lismore, on the road to Byron, I made the silly mistake of commenting on how wonderfully Argo’s gears were working… then clackety clacky craak … we were back to just three gears. Lots of walking and pushing up hills followed. Much beautiful scenery was wasted on us. Too… tired… to … take… photos…
23 April – Lovely Lismore
To be honest, I hadn’t been looking forward to Lismore because I heard it was full of hills. But it is also full of very, very nice people, the hills are beautiful, and we are looking forward to visiting again one day.
The day started with an early morning swim in Helen’s giant swimming pool. I usually complain as much about cold water as I do about hills, but I guess this was something else that changed in Lismore. Ross watched through the mist from the window of our suite as I did laps – not many laps because it was really quite cold – but I think he has a new respect for me now. Perhaps I am becoming a little less soft.
After sprinting back to our room, I got to wash my hair AGAIN (bliss) and use a HAIRDRYER (double bliss). Then Helen cooked me bacon and eggs for brekkie (Ross had muesli with fruit and yoghurt as usual). I could get used to this. Oops – my soft side is splurging out again.
Then it was a very pleasant stroll down the hill (of course) to visit a group of survivors at St Vincents Hospital. We spent the next hour sharing stories of what happened to all of us, how it felt and what worked and didn’t work. Ross’s experiences with swimming and exercising in front of mirrors to get the left side to teach the right side what to do were real hits.
Next stop was Lismore Hospital where we caught up with a team of therapists and nurses. Anne-Marie, who organised the visit, is working on a project to help emergency room nurses in the region keep their stroke skills up to date. Nurses in regional hospitals have to be across the same range of illnesses and injuries as staff in city hospitals, without access to the same resources – so work like Anne-Marie’s is vital.
We also managed to fit in all the media that John organised for us, and ride back to John’s place in peak hour traffic (yes, Lismore does have a peak hour) without getting into trouble. We were meant to spend the night camping on John’s floor, but he went out and bought a sofa bed – have to defer the hardening up campaign another night again. We missed seeing ourselves on the news (or would have if John had a TV) because we had too much fun with John – as demonstrated by this very happy photo (note new sofa in background).
21 and 22 April – On the road to LUXURY in Lismore
We finally managed to drag ourselves away from Maclean for the ride to Lismore, which we broke into two short days with an overnight stop at Woodburn. Woodburn promotes itself as "the travellers resting place" and we did just that. The main tourist attraction is New Italy, just south of Woodburn, which serves wonderful pasta, great coffee and has a great big awning to protect cyclists from rain.
We left early the next morning, and discovered the joys of fog that hangs around rivers. We kept our light on and managed to avoid the ghost trucks that loomed eerily out of the mist. We started to make up silly rhymes about most ghosts heading to the coast to eat roast on toast that had come by post because there was nothing to look at and for the very first time the ride was not... well... interesting. Ross had to ride without glasses because they kept fogging up, and since he was riding up front and can't see much you'd think that would add an element of excitement but the fog made me blind within a few metres too so that didn't seem to count. Luckily the fog cleared to reveal beautiful views before Ross needed to gag me.
Otherwise the ride from Woodburn to Lismore was surprisingly easy, probably due to the absence of big hills (yay!) and we arrived at John’s warehouse just after 11 – a few hours ahead of schedule. We thanked Simon all the way. 
John took us to Nimbin for lunch, where lots of people tried to sell him drugs (apparently it happens all the time). No one offered us any, probably because our bright yellow shirts hurt their eyes.
John had been busy in the day since we last saw him at Maclean. He organized contacts with all the local media, plus arranged accommodation for us at Melville House B&B. Helen, who runs the B&B, put us in the honeymoon suite – and didn’t accept any payment.
20 April – Across the river
The day began with some media commitments before Beth arrived. She and her husband have had two hard years. Dennis has little speech, loss of motor skills of his right arm, and walks with a stick. Before retirement Dennis’s life was full. Family, an owner operator of a bus company, and heavy community involvement. A caravan bought for an around Australia trip lay idle. Once again, lack of awareness. Beth thinks of a different outcome, but still unanswered questions continue to frustrate. We both will keep in contact.
We drove to Iluka, a small seaside town across the river from Yamba. It is quiet with many retirees, beautiful gardens, and empty caravan parks after the holiday peaks. After saying our goodbyes, we went to the co-op for fish and chips (voted by Ann as her best ever) and then stopped at the local bike shop on the way home. Simon, the owner, described himself as a “country mechanic”, but quickly had Argo back to health for the ride to Brisbane. Back to basics approach never fails. Then a lovely cup of tea to farewell our wonderful hosts, Myra and Frank.
Tuesday, 20th April, 2004
19 April – moving in at Maclean
Today was our first real day off. John and Jo took us on “holiday” to Yamba where we showed off our fabulous cycling tans at the world’s greatest surf beach (home of Nat Young). Ross won the competition for the stripiest body.
Had to check the journal to find out what day it was… We love Maclean so much we decided to stay another day - after tweaking the itinerary to make sure we’d still make our Lismore and Brisbane commitments. Maybe we’ll move in.
April 18 – off the highway and on the road to bliss at Maclean
I’m slowly weening myself off The Herald but I’m not sure if it is good or bad. Who knows. We had an early start. You always know you are on the right road when the first traffic you see is a pair of training cyclists, then another, then a peleton, then a pair passing in the same direction. Fantastic!! When we stopped for a bite to eat we met John and Jo. They were doing the return trip to Maclean so we made plans to meet for a coffee when we got there.
The riding was the best so far. Cycling next to the river, no car noise, no glass on the road, heaps of cows and the occasional bull, and sugar cane and pumpkins growing to the roads edge, literally.
We crossed the river by ferry at Lawrence and rolled into Maclean. Today was a special day for us – it was the first day since leaving Sydney that we rode to our destination without hopping off to push up a steep hill. The team was feeling good. After negotiating a narrow bridge we saw a B and B. The historic 1876 Maclean School House …hmmm maybe this was time for a small celebration.
Ann knocked on the door to see if it was in our price range. Frank James answered, said he had seen us on a local TV story, and offered us two nights accommodation. We were overwhelmed and very, very grateful. Many of Myra’s beautiful quiltings and artworks are hung throughout the rooms. They’re amazing. Firstly, a cup of tea, then Jo and John arrived. After teas all round we arranged a full day’s sight seeing for tomorrow at Yamba, Angourie, and other local highlights. How could we resist?
April 17 – Grafton at sunset
A warm sunny day, travelling to Grafton. The captain was feeling the effects of fatigue. Each day as we ride between towns we will see a white cross, marking a tragic end. Sometimes flowers have been laid recently. The road is straight and clear, the danger hidden and unknown. Always a young man.
Finally we made Grafton as the sun set. It is a town with many fine buildings, wide roads and a beautiful river. Sadly we were too tired to explore this evening. Oh well, there’s always tomorrow.
April 16 – walking to Woolgoolga
We stood in the room with Carol and her husband Bob. He had his stroke about 10 days ago. Left side clot, little speech, no feeling or movement right side. Bob had lived an active lifestyle, no obvious triggers. His frustration could be seen. It is a long road ahead but it must be done. Our thoughts are with both of them.
Time to leave Coffs – city traffic, red lights. Soon it was clear that Argo was not working well, a slow grind to Woolgoola. Arrived at Sue and Trevor’s just in time for a yummy curry on the beach with friends. Friday night relaxation under the stars with the sound of breaking waves.
April 15 - Argo runs aground in Coffs Harbour
An early start. Grae and Rae saw us off with a lunch bag of sandwiches – very special motel owners. We had a very fast run into Toormina, south of Coffs – it’s great running ahead of the “got to get to work” traffic.
Two newspaper interviews, a visit to the base hospital, then Argo spent the rest of the day at the bike doctor to get her gears sorted out. In the end we all decided we’d need to get our original chain wheels sent up from Sydney to Brisbane, and just limp along until we get there.
Wednesday, 14th April, 2004
14 April – Beautiful Uranga, Coffs Harbour the next
For the first time we are behind schedule – by about 2 hours. Instead of arriving at Coffs Harbour tonight, we decided to stop at Uranga, a beautiful seaside town to the South. The main reason behind this was that Ross has now taken full custody of my cold and you know the rest of story. Very nice of Ross to take the cold on really, I feel MUCH better now.
We are staying in a wonderful 1950’s style motel off the highway. It reminds Ross of the places he stayed in when on holidays as a small child in the 1960’s. It reminds me of the old movies I used to love to watch. It is family owned, and the proprieter is providing us with dinner in a few minutes – thank you so much! They also have a cat here I got to pat, that should take care of my cat fix for another two days.
After we arrived (and did the usual wash one shirt, shorts and pair of socks each) we walked down to the shore and walked along the board walk. I tried to take lots of photos of pelicans, to make up for all the pelicans I didn’t photograph in Port Macquarie. I haven’t had time to read my camera manual yet and am not sure how to use the zoom (if it has one…). Luckily one of the pelicans decided to come and pose for a close up. I was starting to think all this modeling was getting to his head when he came around for his fiftieth turn in front of the camera, but he was actually after a fish. The catch was spectacular, but naturally I didn’t capture it on film. I guess I’ll have to set that as a goal for the next pelican hangout we visit.
Tuesday, 13th April, 2004
13 April - Ann becomes a grease monkey on the road to Macksville
We left Kempsey this morning with heavy, threatening skies and a forecast for rain (aargh... I confess I am still a softie, but a year on the road should toughen me up). The traffic was still so thick that it took us about 15 minutes just to get on to the right side of the highway.
As always, it felt great to get back on the bike and get going until... oh no... the chain jammed, emergency stop and hop off the bike. We pushed the bike to the top of the hill (everything around here is either the top or bottom of a hill) and found a quieter area to pull in to. At first I delicately plucked at the chain with a tissue, then I imagined Dave our mechanic laughing at me (I think he's still laughing at how I change tyres) so I ditched delicacy and got stuck in. The battle of Ann versus the bike chain had begun - a real tug of war - and I won. I had an entirely black hand full of chain grease that would have made Dave proud. The Bob Rogers method of wiping greasy hands clean on the grass worked wonders, definately recommened.
We spent the rest of the day stuck in the mid gears, because it was trying to change to granny gears on the hill that caused the jam. We've been having trouble with this gear change from the start, but we put it down to technique because the changer is on Ross's bad right side (falsely accused it seems). Consequently we've had a harder time on hills than expected, which is why hills get so much air time on this diary page. We have a hot date with Rainbow Cycles south of Coffs Harbour to get this sorted out - thanks Rick for the referral!
In the meantime, we're sheltering under the credit card at Macksville tonight as I didn't want to brave the tent again until my cold is gone (like I said, I'm a softie). Fortunately for the budget, the cold's on the way out now - but Ross has caught it! But he's being very well looked after, and he assures me he's much fitter than me anyway, so he doesn't expect it to hit him too hard.
Monday, 12th April, 2004
12 April - joining the holiday traffic to Kempsey
Seems like all of NSW was on the road with us today, and in more of a hurry than they were last week.
Beautiful sunny day with no wind, travelled through some wonderful forests covered with blackbutt, tallowood and casuarina. Not just great to look at, but felt good too - like passing through natural air conditioning.
10 & 11 April - tourists in Port Macquarie
We took it easy for a few days in Port, spent some much needed time updating the website, maintaining the bike, mending the panniers, mending Ann's cold, and putting back the 1kg we each lost last week. Most of it got put back at the Port Macquarie Bowling Club where Ann demonstrated how much it is possible for one person to eat in one sitting (lots) - not bad for $12!!! Afterwards we couldn't move (much) so we spent some time watching the bowlers at work - very skillful. Then Pat's cousin Noelene took us sight seeing, and we saw how much Port Macquarie had changed - in the ten years since our last visit; and in the fifty years since Pat had lived there.
Saturday, 10th April, 2004
9 April - Good Friday, good holiday
Did the tv interview in morning. Lots of fun getting bike riding shots but well balanced story - very good for stroke. Rest of the day spent sight seeing - holiday mode.
Also a great opportunity to get some washing done without having to worry it wouldn't be dry the next morning! Gave those smelly cycling gloves a good scrub too - they are fragrant once again.
8 April - Sunny Port Macquarie
Kew to Port Macquarie along the coast road. Flat road, ocean views, considerate travellers, and then pulled in to Port about four hours early.
Staying for a couple of days with Pat, an old family friend. Did a phone interview with local newspaper and doing a TV story tomorrow.
The Easter hols are in full swing, people everywhere. This town has exploded and is now the fastest growing rural area in the state.
7 April - Kew - soggy cyclists
Really flat ride from Taree to Kew. Stopped for morning feed and watched an amazing sight- two eagles were being hounded by a couple of cocky magpies. Suddenly the big birds hit a thermal. After 60 seconds of tight circles, without wing movement, the eagles were a couple of hundred metres high, drifting off to the north. Wow.
Traffic is building for the Easter weekend. We stopped at a rest area for a bite to eat and it bucketed down. I’m not having a whinge, just feeling fortunate that I finally got some rain gear at Taree (but Ann’s still looking for a raincoat in a children’s size, as adult small is way too big). While sitting out the rain Ann organised some media for Port Macquarie and some initial calls to Coffs Harbour hospital for next week.
When we pulled into Kew we felt like drowned rats, so we rode down the coast road and credit carded at a relaxing motel. Set in grounds of Monterey cypress and many Gan Gan cockatoos. We were treated to dinner and breakfast next morning- thank you so much Lyn Meagher, the proprietor.
6 April - Taree and a set of stats
Run up the road to Taree - it was decided not to go the coast road so we could have a flatter and easier ride so as not to aggravate the stoker’s cold. Stopped at Nabiac for lunch, a tiny village originally set up for timber.
We are now starting to get comfortable with tour riding. For the stats lovers amongst us we’re usually doing from 50-75 km a day, take between 2 and 4 hrs to do the distance, love the scenery, daily max speed about 45 kph and have rest stops when the bum wants one. The stoker loves her shock post, thinks the bar end mirror is an absolute necessity, as are the granny gears. Captain agrees. Bob trailer is great - highly recommended.
5 April - Nelson Bay ferry
Time to leave, and the rain starts…hmm. Said goodbye to Paul the night before - he leaves for work at 5:30 ! Paul works at a coal mine 45 minutes up the road at Maitland and describes himself as a “ditch digger”. No underground work.
We caught the ferry across to Tea Gardens, grabbed a bite to eat, then headed up the coast road to the Mungo Brush punt. No traffic. The roadsides are covered with banksias, angopharas, and melaleucas- very relaxing riding. Finally arrived at Bulahdelah after 10km on dirt - I think I need more time at ‘tandem on dirt while raining’ school.
Getting wet didn’t help Ann’s cold – can I have more TLC please?
4 April - still moored at Boat Harbour
Lots of beach, lots of sightseeing, lots of relaxing, lots of eating, plenty of entertainment from the junior Crams. No riding.
Ann had caught a cold and spent the day on the verandah crashed out on a banana lounge. TLC needed.
The local area is covered in melaleuca trees in flower. Also many Gymea lilies, but many have been butchered. Fantastic views from the local lookout.
Saturday, 3rd April, 2004
3 April - Boat Harbour - BIG day, BIG headwind
Today was our biggest day so far being fully loaded - 75km.
After saying our farewells at L’Hotel Levi we did a quick ride down to the Newcastle foreshore, ducked across to Stockton on the ferry, and then set off for the flat ride towards Nelson Bay. Headwinds all the way - fun not. Many rest stops later, we were met by the Boat Harbour bicycle search party - our host Paul Cram, thinking we might have missed a turn. Anne, Paul, and family live directly opposite the beach - stunning.
After a BBQ it was suggested that we stay another day and explore- no arm twisting needed.
Friday, 2nd April, 2004
2 April - John Hunter Hospital
We're staying at hotel Chris and Julia in Newcastle. The accommodation is 5 star, meals are included and there is a laundry service!!! Thanks Julia! It will be tough hitting the tent again tomorrow.
We spent most of the day at John Hunter Hospital where Chris works. We met staff and patients in the stroke unit and then visited patients in the rehab clinic. They have an independant living unit (known as the honeymoon suite) where patients and their partners can stay for a few days before they are discharged. The unit is set up as a mini apartment with a full kitchen where patients can practice daily living activities (like preparing meals for their families) before they have to face the outside world again. I remember how scary Ross's discharge was, I was so unprepared - this is a wonderful initiative. Unfortunately they only have the one unit so there is quite a waiting list.
It was also wonderful to meet the emergency room nurses, and say thank you for all the lives they save. One day I will go back to Westmead Hospital and say thank you to Tony the ER nurse who helped me through that first day when Ross was having his stroke.
1 April - Newcastle
Today was much easier, still lots of hills but we are getting better at it. Some of the road surfaces were a bit slippery with loose gravel but Ross kept the speed down and we got through safely. Then we had some great riding on good, smooth freeway shoulders.
Lots of cars honked their horns at us - maybe because we've been getting media coverage almost every day now or maybe because we look so funny in our flouro yellow shirts and semi-trailer of a bike.
We arrived at Newcastle in the afternoon and spent a nice quiet hour looking out over the water. Newcastle is a beautiful place.
31 March - Wyong
Getting out of Gosford was hard work - so many hills! And the traffic is worse than Sydney!
It was an exhausting day. The high point was visiting the nurses at Wyong Hospital. They don't often get to see patients when they've recovered, usually only when they're sick.
Then we had another radio interview, followed by a whole lot of hills to climb in peak hour traffic while we looked for somewhere to pich our tent. But there was a steak and a shower to be had at the end of the day, and things looked good again.
Tuesday 30 March - visiting Gosford Hospital
Today we visited the stroke unit at Gosford Hospital. It was wonderful to talk with the nurses and stroke patients, share experiences and answer questions on how we adjusted to different challenges. We also met John and his wife Judy who are making a very brave recovery together after John's stroke a few weeks ago. John can say a few words now and can walk a short way, there is a long way to go but now they're on the road they can get to where they want to go.
Monday 29 March - Brooklyn - so many messages
Our story was featured on Sunday Sunrise yesterday. We never saw it, but read the transcript on Channel 7's website. We received an overwhelming response - so many emails from stroke survivors and others wishing us well on our journey. Thank you so much.
Sunday 28 March - We actually did it. We left Sydney.
We were a pretty strange contingent leaving Parramatta park, us on our tandem, Kevin on his recumbent, Konrad and Kenyat on mountain bikes and Michael on a hybrid bike. David drove ahead of us and mum followed behind in her car, a traffic protection sandwich.
Our escort left us at Hornsby after we all stopped for breakfast. It was only at Mount Colah that it finally sunk in that we were actually doing this. Three years ago when Ross was in hospital it all seemed so far away and now we're doing it. I had a big lump in my throat for quite a few kilometers.
We passed lots of cyclists at Berowra as they all came in to finish the RTA BigRide. It was good to see so many tandems out - we even saw one bike with three people on it. Thanks to mum taking all the heavy stuff in her car we actually made it to Brooklyn in time for lunch. We had a great relaxing afternoon with mum in the Brooklyn pub, then checked into our motel room - Ross's birthday present from mum (thanks again mum!!!). A very, very good first day.